Lipsy

Tough love works for Gareth Pugh|PFW

by Katie Wright

Along with Giles Deacon, whose show yesterday we really loved, the other wunderkind of Brit fashion eagerly anticipated on the Paris Fashion Week schedule this week was Gareth Pugh. Also an ANDAM award recipient, the similarities between both of their collection ends there though. If for AW 10, Deacon was inspired by cutesy cartoons of the likes of Astro Boy, Pugh has been reading far more grown-up comics, as his collection reflected the wardrobe of a superhero gone bad; head to toe in black leather, from knee boots and gauntlet gloves to body armour and capes. You can imagine celebrity fans such as Beyonce and Roisin Murphy taking notes for their on-stage gear, however for us regular janes, the nu-gothic heroine is definitely a tough look to pull off.

Thankfully the strongest distillation of this collection comes in various shapes- a metallic cashmere wool coat with matching flared pants and obi-style belt. A long-sleeved dress whose A-line shape fell to cape-like points at the back,was tempered.  A front-zipped mini-dress with long neoprene sleeves; half-transparent leather and gauze chevron-striped sweaters and skirts. There was a floor length,crocheted cardigan over skin-tight leather leggings and many a slinky chain-strewn black dress.Adding another angle were male models adorning pallazo pants and floor-length pleated skirts, perhaps to show off the masculine side of the female body? Compared to his earliest collections of zany patent black and white leather contraptions, it’s clear that Pugh has learnt to channel his darkest creative impulses into realistically saleable clothing.

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