L'Wren Scott
Steven Alan
Marc by Marc Jacobs
by Katie Wright
As a recent recipient of the coveted ANDAM Award (which means he now shows during Paris Fashion Week), Londoner Giles Deacon is watched with pride each season by the LFW contingency. This golden boy has managed to distance himself from a scene that is all too often more about designers strategically positioning their clothes on the backs of celebrity friends (a certain Henry springs to mind) than concentrating on quality design. Not so this week in Paris, as Giles showed a consistent and well-received Autumn/Winter 10 collection.
Moving from the eighties vibe of last season, Giles came up with a sixties silhouette - Beehive, nipped in waist A-lined skirts, some metallic, some draped with ‘wings’ of fabric extending from a sweetheart seam at the back to a full skirt while the rest were a myriad of ruffles; it was flattering and womanly to say the least. Karolina Kurkova opened the show in a brown tea dress with draped skirt – the first evidence that Giles has been splashing the ANDAM cash on the supers as the model roll call included Carmen Kass, Coco Rocha, Alessandra Ambrosio, et al. In addition, it afforded him some of the weirdest head-gear we’ve seen this month: gravity-defying wire ensembles suspended high above models’ heads from none other than milliner Stephen Jones. One mirrored the pattern on the catwalk, bundles of cartoon clouds, and this theme continued onto bags, and a certain 3D inspired grey ruffle skirt.
In the midst of this editorial fodder there were a variety of accessible pieces that are sure to prove a hit with buyers: A metallic body con dress worn by Jessica Stam, corset dresses, a simple long grey cardigan; black silk dresses with fiery galactic splodges, a series of short orange or cream frocks with scalloped overlapping edges (cloud shaped of course). Accessories were desirable too, continuing last season’s animalistic tendencies, this time huge with monster eyes gave a comical feel, plus the rope-thin belts seen throughout the collection represented an affordable piece of the Giles brand. He may have his head in the clouds, but it looks like Giles Deacon has still got one eye on the finish line.
[...] with Giles Deacon, whose show yesterday we really loved, the other wunderkind of Brit fashion eagerly anticipated on the Paris Fashion Week [...]