by Katie Wright
While it was touch and go over at Emanuel Ungaro, what was never in doubt this Paris Fashion Week was that Karl Lagerfeld would deliver a sleek and consummate eponymous collection entirely in keeping with his rigorous aesthetic. Continuing a run of great fashion fortune (as if he ever puts a foot wrong!), earlier in the week it was announced that the man known as Kaiser Karl is to be made Commander of the French Legion of Honour. Which may not sound as immediately impressive as an Oscar or Grammy, but in France it is a Big Deal, having previously gone to design heavyweights like Yves Saint Laurent and Giorgio Armani.
For Autumn Winter 2010, Commander Karl sent his troops out in a day uniform of skin-tight black patent pants topped with streamlined black jackets or tunics that combined rounded shoulders with triangle-edged folds. Buttons used on sleeves and collars had a Chinese historical flavour but on the whole this was a decidedly forward-thinking collection. Perhaps to reference his newly begotten title, a military jacket in red piping appeared over high-riding shorts and opaque tights. Even using a vinyl finish on patent pants, which for the last couple of seasons have somewhat been omnipresent on the high street, looked somewhat new when set against such directional separates. And the tough androgyny was kept in check with vampy red lips and nails, plus a flurry of sparkling beaded embellished dresses brought the show to an impressive finish.





L'Wren Scott
Steven Alan
Marc by Marc Jacobs




